We are now back in Opunohu Bay in the eastern anchorage which is picturesque, calm and busy as usual. What it lacks in peace and quiet it makes up for in social life. We have now met a couple of Aussie boats who have been here a while so lots of useful local knowledge to pick up which is always good.
Our 5 days in Ha’apiti on the south west coast was great. The prevailing SE which had been enhanced by a squash zone way to the south of FP, the mara’amu, made it a breezy spot as it is open to the SE. However, the anchorage over a coral sand flat about 3m deep is protected from any swell and the holding is excellent (which was tested on several occasions when the wind settled in at 25 to 30kn for a couple of nights.) We are gaining confidence in our rocna anchor, but we still sleep lightly in those conditions.
Surf picked up over the weekend too, with a solid 2 to 3m swell on the pass. Not a time to make your way through as it is pretty narrow and a bit sketchy in those conditions.
Not that it was all windy. Multiple times the wind would just turn off, go calm for a few hours or all night and morning, then switch back on again. Must be the effect of the high island, sea breezes etc, but we never worked it out.
On the Saturday we were treated to a local va’a (6 person outrigger canoes) race which was spectacular to watch. We had no idea what was going on to start with as dozens of va’a and spectator boats descended on the anchorage. It became clear that this was a pretty large event with at least 40 va’a. It was blowing hard when they started and as we were anchored on the edge of the channel they all came past nice and close. Lots of fantastic colours, cheering from the spectator boats and shouting from the crews “allez!”. It was a long race and they disappeared around the S of the island, probably heading for Vaiare on the E coast. That’s some paddle with the windy, choppy conditions. Great fun.
We will hang around between here and Cooks bay for the next week or so, doing the usual routine – enjoying a quiet coffee in the early morning light, a snorkel or two, a boat job or two and great food which Deb keeps creating to my enduring appreciation.