We waited a couple more days in Ha’apiti then moved around to Cooks Bay in preparation for departure East. It looked like a window of very light N/NW winds would give us a chance to get away at least to Tikehau on the NW end of the Tuamotus. So, firstly, the last minute stock up of fruit and vegetables, as well as diesel. Cooks Bay is very convenient to get all that done.
After much debate about whether to head for Tikehau or whether the wind might allow us to get further S and E to Fakarava, (which was our preferred route as it got us 160nm closer upwind towards the Gambiers), we decided to go for Fakarava.
Turned out to be a great decision. We had a lovely 49hr passage in very calm conditions and mostly clear skies. We had anticipated that there might be a lot of motoring in no wind, but the first 29hrs were superb reaching at speeds of 6 or 7 knots despite the light winds and were very enjoyable. Sadly the wind did then die and we had to motor the last 20hrs which was a shame, but at least the seas were very comfortable.
Arriving at dawn to the N pass of Fakarava brought back many memories from our last adventures here 15yrs ago. The atolls are so different from the Societies – no more mountainous, rain forest clad hills – just a low line of coconut palms outlining the edge of the reef and a large open lagoon. We anchored just inside the N pass and tried out our techniques for floating the chain. This is necessary in the atolls because there are lots of coral bommies scattered around the anchorage. You have to find a sandy spot to set the anchor & then use floats to keep the chain off the bottom so that it does not snag on the coral as you swing. Not only does this protect the coral, but also avoids getting stuck and potentially damaging the chain and/or windlass. Happy to say that after a couple of goes and much snorkeling to check the results, we did a pretty good job.
The snorkeling here was superb. A large bommie near the port marker was full of thriving coral, huge numbers of fish both big and small and more sharks than you could keep an eye on at once! In one space you could see multiple black tips, tawny nurse sharks and grey nurse sharks. In contrast to the Society reefs, everything seemed bigger and showed no interest or concern that we were there, (which was probably just as well!).
The anchorage was also a dinghy ride to the main village of Rotoava which gave us an opportunity to have a stroll and soak up the local feel of the place. It certainly felt very much more relaxed than where we had come from.
After a couple of days in the north of Fakarava, we had another lovely 30nm downwind sail through the middle of the atoll to Hirifa at the SE corner. What a glorious anchorage it was too, with beautiful blue water in which to swim, sand banks, palm-fringed beaches & the opportunity to explore the ocean side for shells. This is where we enjoyed Christmas with our friends John and Kerry on Kelani, which was really nice. Although it is true to say that we do feel a long way from our family at this time. Not the usual family Christmas in Pittwater with us being here, Edward and Alicia down the coast at Picnic Point, Alice in Thailand and Wil in Amsterdam. Thankfully modern satellite comms allows us to all stay in close touch at least.
We were there for a few more days, before moving down to the south pass of Fakarava which was very special. World famous for the diving in the pass and the number of sharks, (black tip, white tip and grey nurse mostly), that hang around in the pass (there is a French documentary called “700 sharks” which gives you some idea!) We enjoyed a few magical days here in the calm, drift snorkeling on multiple occasions through the pass. On the edge the coral and fish life is brilliant and down below you can see the many sharks as well as hump headed maori wrasse, triggerfish, grouper & multiple schools of snapper. We did this twice a day, as well as exploring the shoreline, shell hunting on the ocean side and snorkeling off the boat too.
We had a lovely New Years Eve pizza and movie night with John and Kerry, but none of us made it to midnight! Next day the northerly set in and the anchorage became very bouncy & uncomfortable. We didn’t stay long however and that afternoon set off for the overnight passage to Makemo. It was a very special time to revisit Fakarava after 15 years and enjoy so many happy memories, as well as create some new ones.