I don’t think there are enough superlatives to describe the small atoll of Amanu, which so aptly fits the description of a South Pacific paradise. This is an absolute gem and we feel lucky to have been ‘stranded’ here whilst awaiting favourable winds to get us to the Gambier Islands. We have been here for 3 weeks now exploring the different anchorages & small village called Ikitake, which is populated by just 200 people. More of that later.
Navigating through the lagoon proved easy with the aid of satellite images & Bill’s excellent vision on the foredeck, as the bommies were few & far between. In the centre of the atoll is the Navel or Étoile of Amanu, a star shaped reef with an area of shallow sand on the southern side in which to drop your anchor. There was just ourselves & Kelani there for several days, which made it a very peaceful spot! Snorkelling the reef edge was fabulous with crystal clear water & lots of busy fish, the occasional octopus, several reef sharks & even a manta ray in the deep. It was possible in some spots to access the very shallow water over the reef , which was like swimming in a beautiful warm bath. The difference in this temperature compared with the main body of water created a pronounced thermocline at the edge of the reef, visible as a shimmer in the water due to the different water densities.
After a blissful few days of utter relaxation, we headed to an anchorage in the NE of the atoll opposite a small string of uninhabited motus. Although coconut trees were predominant, around the edges of the motus were smaller trees & shrubs, populated by several roughly made nests in which a single, VERY fluffy fledgling can be found. Most I think were booby babies, although there were also black & brown noddies as well as white terns flying around in significant numbers. The adults swooped on our approach to keep us at a respectable distance or even faked injury to lead us away. It was great to see such healthy populations of seabirds.
We enjoyed easy days of swimming, snorkelling and beachcombing the shores – even finding the occasional shell! We had fires on the beach & sundowners in the evening, as well as the occasional treat of a pizza night on Kelani! The sunsets never failed to impress and the night sky was simply dazzling. Shortly after our arrival we were treated to the spectacle of a comet: C/2024 G3 Atlas to be exact – which was visible just after sunset. I don’t think that I have ever had a ringside seat before witnessing such a breathtaking spectacle with the comet’s long tail easily visible to the naked eye. Nor will I see it again – it’s not returning for another 160,000 years!
We decided to head to the small village of Ikitake to have a look around and to say hello to François, who is the cruiser-friendly mayor of the village, as well as the nursing practitioner and chief of police I believe. (I’m not sure how many police are warranted for the population of 200, all of whom, I’m sure, are related to one another!). We had also noted the arrival of a cargo ship so we’re hoping that we might be able to pick up some supplies. As it turns out, it wasn’t that type of cargo ship, so no fresh produce but we were able to buy eggs, (the mayor also has a chicken farm of 100 birds!) & some tins of fruit for breakfast. It was lovely to meet François, an absolutely delightful gentleman & I was pleased to be able to donate some medical supplies to him which included a reasonably new stethoscope, (which rather astoundingly had been left on the boat by its previous owners). François was very pleased & very kindly in return, presented me with a beautiful shell necklace. I will treasure the memory.
Unfortunately we couldn’t stay long in the village as the anchorage was a bit narly & the winds strong, so we headed off to another lovely spot on the SE of the island to sit out the wind for a few days. More snorkelling, walks and beach bonfires. It is so peaceful here. There are a couple of other boats in the atoll but we only see their anchor lights occasionally and it feels like we are the only 2 boats in the entire place.
The wind dropped & we returned for another few glorious days at Star reef, where we were joined by a boat called Captain Darwin. The skipper Victor, came to visit the following day & told us of his & his crew’s goal to retrace the steps of Darwin’s circumnavigation as well as undertake underwater research programs. Their mission (from their website) is to “examine how two centuries of human activity have impacted ecosystems and what measures can be taken to prevent further biodiversity loss’. They have had a remarkable 3 year journey so far & Victor reckons he will complete the circumnavigation in another 3 years. What an amazing experience!
So whilst enjoying this amazing place, we are ready to move on for the final passage to the Gambier Islands. We are hoping that the winds may be favourable next week, but as always, the different weather models do not coincide so whilst we waited we returned to the north side of the atoll and had another few lovely days in the tranquil lagoon, feeling like we were the only ones there.
On one of the snorkeling forays, I discovered a beautiful octopus that seemed quite unfazed by my presence and I spent a magical time just watching this amazing creature as it swam in and out of its den, changing colour and shape as it did so. We returned with John & Kerry the next day to find that there were in fact 2 octopi and the 4 of us were again totally enthralled by them. A very special treat. A couple of windless days followed so we went to a rather more exposed anchorage on the east side. The water was so still it was almost invisible and it felt like we were suspended in the air above the sand.
Finally the weather maps began to show an opportunity to head south, although not ideal. Essentially no wind for the first couple of days then a decent NW to get us the rest of the way. It promised lots of squally weather towards the Gambiers as the SPCZ strengthens but we plan to get to Rikitea before the worst of it. After 4 glorious weeks here in Amanu we have decided to make the run.